Printed in The American Tri-Five magazine in Volume 7 : Issue 5
Ok, I know there’s a certain number of Tri-Five owners who will consider this sacrilege, but let’s face it; people have been swapping engines into these cars that they didn’t originally come with since almost day one and have continued to do so over the years. Whether it’s a 327, 350, 400, TPI, LT1, big block, stroker small block, or even other makes, it's simply no different than the LS conversion craze that has taken the automotive world by storm.
Now, let’s get one thing straight; no one is playing down the original small block and 235ci straight six options. To be honest, it’s awesome there are still cars out there sporting an original, or original style, driveline to be representatives for the way things used to be. Call it a rolling history lesson if you will.
However, there are folks out there who believe original simply isn’t their thing. Frankly, they want more power. They want improved reliability. They want less maintenance. They want a car they can get in, bang the key, and enjoy without getting tools out every other time the car starts, without constant maintenance, without worrying about being stuck on a roadside somewhere. I know I just heard a bunch of people reading this go “well, buy a new car then!” And I’ll ask the question….
Why?
Why not have the best of all worlds in a car that we all love so much? When most modern cars have the looks and personality of an electric shaver, why not have a car that does it all, including have the iconic look that a Tri-Five has? Why should someone be constricted to a car with technology from a lifetime ago, just because “that’s the way it came?” Frankly, it's basic Hot Rodding 101. Bigger, better, stronger, faster. In the case of the LS, it just happens to make things a LOT more user friendly as well.
But…..Why?
Speaking of why, let's go ahead and look at some of the biggest reasons the LS conversion has gained the popularity it has:
Reliability This is the big one most people go for. Around town cruising is fun and all, but if road trips, daily use, or a lot of cruising is in your plans, a modern driveline option likely will save time and effort in many standpoints, as well as cut down on roadside malarkey. Simply put, there’s a certain level of straight-up reliability that comes with a modern powerplant, and it’s a huge selling point of the LS platform.
Ease of operation Let’s face it, we all take it for granted going out to a modern (or even semi-modern, at this point) daily driver and simply bumping the key and taking off, without an extensive start-up procedure or a warm-up period before it’ll run as intended. All of that is taken care of by electronic fuel injection and computer programming, providing reliable, easy-going cruising with the ease of your daily-driver type unit.
Low maintenance The service intervals for an LS compared to a I-6, small block Chevy, or big block Chevy, frankly are few and far between. It wouldn’t be uncommon to see most every LS engine goes 100K+ miles without taking a valve cover off. Things like timing chains, lifters, rocker arms...you name it, almost NEVER have to be touched once installed. There is not a single paper gasket in an LS, significantly cutting down on leaks. Unless you choose to do so, there’s no carburetor to deal with whatsoever. You simply treat it as you would a new(er) car when it comes to the driveline. And with modern EFI being highly adaptable to changing surroundings, it’s generally “set it and forget it" once it's squared away.
Usable Power Sure, it's not uncommon to see four, five, even six hundred horsepower small and big block combos out there these days on the street. What they lack, is the drivability that an LS of comparable power has to offer. A 450hp LS3 will drive like your grandmother’s Cadillac if you keep your foot out of it. Due to improved cylinder head, intake, and valve-train design, power is made easily enough that there’s no need for race-gas-only compression ratios, camshafts that require crazy high stall RPM torque converters, or giving up comfortable use with a manual transmission.
Fuel Mileage Hey, gas is $4+ a gallon, right? A 400+ hp engine being capable of knocking down 20+ MPG out on the road with ease is quite the selling point, especially if long trips are on the books for future plans. Better mileage = less stops = more smiles.
So, you’ve decided that an LS swap is for you. Now what?
Pick A Winner!
Selecting an engine and transmission combination is generally the first step, and to do so, your overall goals must be taken into consideration. What are you going to be doing with the car? Are you building a cross country cruiser? Street bruiser? Saturday night special racer that sees occasional street duty? Ultimately, these questions will lead you to the engine that suits your needs the best.
Used, but not used up: Thankfully, GM put the LS configuration in PLENTY of vehicles, so second-hand engine options are plentiful. From their full-size truck, van, and SUV options to multiple passenger cars, and ultimately the top dog Corvette platforms, there will be plenty of donors available here. There are options ranging from 4.8 to 7.0 liters, and power ranging from 275hp out a basic 4.8 to 556HP out of the supercharged 6.2 LSA variants found in ZL1 Camaros and Cadillac CTS-V’s, and the baddest of the bad 638HP LS9 variant in the ZR1. For ease of operation, unless valve-train upgrades are in the cards before installation, I personally prefer to stay away from engines equipped with GM’s “displacement on demand” or “DOD” setups. These setups can be failure prone in the lifter department if intending to use in stock configuration. Outside of that, you’d treat the buying and inspection process the same as you’d treat a small block Chevy. Lower miles, the better, well maintained the better. And the better you start, the better you end up.
Nope, new. If used ain’t your thing, and budget allows, new will always be the best bet. There’s no shortage of crate engine options out there, and with most options carrying warranties that rival those of new-car power-trains, it's always your safest bet. GM’s LS3 lineup can provide a setup to appease most, whether it be their base 436hp variation, the smooth operating step-up 495hp, or the cammed-up 525hp, these engines carry 2-year, 50,000-mile warranties and OE technology standing behind them. In my experience, these engines have been absolutely bulletproofed, and have been my go-to in the shop and own garage for some amount of time. However, there’s many great options out there from companies like Blueprint, Texas Speed, or even your local engine builder to procure the powerplant that fits your needs the best!
Shifting Gears
Power has to get to the wheels somehow, so a transmission is next. Do you prefer to drop it in gear and go, or prefer a stir-it-yourself manual transmission setup? At any rate, this is one of the places an LS brings a Tri-Five into the 21st century. Rather than be stuck with a Powerglide, TH350/400, Muncie, or any other trans with a 1:1 final drive ration, every transmission the LS was mated to from the factory is equipped with overdrive. Now, not to say your favorite 3-speed auto or 4-speed manual your car is currently equipped with won’t mate to the LS, because it most certainly will with very minimal effort, the overdrive is simply a HUGE part of what will make your LS swap usable. Lower RPMs at higher cruising speed make for less wear on the engine, lower passenger compartment volume levels, better fuel mileage…..there’s just no downside to using an overdrive transmission, period.
Automatic winner. If you like an automatic, GM’s 4L series of 4-speed auto transmissions are the ticket. Whether it’s a 4L60E you’ll find out of a 2WD half ton or Camaro/Firebird/GTO, or a 4L80E like you’ll see in ¾ and 1-ton units, these transmissions are bolt-up units for the LS. If performance is your thing, aftermarket high-stall torque converters are readily available straight off the shelf. Cool thing there, unlike the TH350’s and 400’s of the world, these converters offer a lock-up function just like your modern daily driver that takes that high stall RPM out of the equation at low-load and highway speed, restoring the fuel mileage that is basically non-existent with a big, non-lockup converter.
There are also options available for the 6L series of 6-speed automatics, but these transmissions do require extensive floor pan modification that may not play nice with your chosen interior combination. However, if concession is willing to be made in this department, Hot Rod Dynamics makes a prefabricated tunnel to run one of these transmissions, P/N HRD-TUNNEL that takes the custom fab work out of the equation. Do note, the “E” on the end of all these transmission names designates them being electronically controlled, so this will be something to factor into your engine management computer options.
Everyone loves a lever. If you’re a shift-it-yourself kinda driver, a manual transmission behind an LS is simple and straight forward. Multiple LS powered cars left the factory equipped with a Tremec T56 or TR6060 6-speed manual transmissions, so this is no aftermarket endeavor. Clutch options, shifters, you name it, these setups have the full power of the automotive aftermarket to back them up for almost two decades now.
However, just like the 6L automatic transmissions, these behemoth 6-speeds do require trans tunnel modification. And with used T56 and TR6060 prices rising in recent times, the option to go with an aftermarket 5-speed transmission starts to look more appealing. The Tremec TK-series transmissions, most recently the new TKX, offer readily available, incredibly strong, brand new transmission options with a variety of ratios that all offer deep overdrive gears for highway cruising. And best of all? No trans tunnel modifications required.
And hooking up that clutch? No problem either. McLeod makes it easy with their retrofit hydraulic master cylinder kit, P/N 1434001. This is a truly bolt-in setup that requires no firewall modification, and converts away from the clumsy mechanical setup, and frees up room as well with no clutch linkage in the way on the frame rail.
With an engine and transmission selected, there’s bound to be more questions. Such as…..
“How do I mount this thing?”
This is probably one of the biggest questions I get on the daily when it comes to LS conversions. “There’s probably something special I have to do to get this mounted in my car, right?” The answer is “no more special than a small block!” If you can install a side engine mount conversion kit in your car to utilize 3-bolt motor mounts, in place of the factory pencil mounts at the front of the block, you’re golden.
The Woody’s Hot Rodz Deluxe engine mount kit, P/N WHR-30350 with added LS mounts make mounting a breeze. The basics of the kit include a side engine mount conversion (you’ll want to use the 3/4” forward designation to start), a pair of standard GM style 3-bolt motor mounts, and a bolt-in transmission crossmember that will be used in place of the factory side mounts that will be removed and discarded. The aforementioned LS mounts consist of a two-part adjustable adapter plate that bolts to the block, converts the LS 4-bolt motor mount configuration to the standard GM 3-bolt, and allows for fore and aft adjustment in order to place the engine exactly where it needs to be for your specific application. Remember, these are 65+ year old cars we’re dealing with, and no two will be alike. The adjustable mounts essentially will ensure that you have some amount of flexibility to fit your specific needs.
“Do I need to modify my firewall?”
The short answer here is no, you do not. Whether you have a 55, 56, or 57, an LS will fit the factory firewall and still be plenty serviceable. You’ll typically see your tightest clearances at the rearmost point of the passenger cylinder head, but this is also where the adjustable mounts mentioned in the first point come in handy. Basically, you can slide the engine back until you’ve maintained the tightest clearance possible and set the lock nuts. But rest assured, it does fit without even getting the hammer out. If you want the engine set back in the engine bay, a recessed firewall will be a must, along with standard position motor mounts.
“What about my transmission tunnel?”
With the 4-speed automatics and 5-speed manual transmission options, transmission tunnel modifications (outside of shifter accommodations) are not required. The most I tend to do, is trim back the lip at the pinch, where the toe board and floor pan meet each other. This is easy enough to do without disturbing painted surfaces at the firewall and floor, and provides additional clearance for transmission cooler lines, dipstick tubes, clutch hoses, and bellhousings. With the 6-speed transmissions, be it automatic or manual, the transmission tunnel itself will need to be raised as mentioned in the transmission selection areas.
And leading into our next multi-point area:
“Do I need to change anything on the engine itself?”
To which the answer is “yes”.
Accessory Drive Let’s face it, GM had absolutely no idea these engines would wind up in vehicles outside what they were designed for. Or, if they did, they certainly didn’t design OE accessory drives to fit the aftermarket’s needs. This only really becomes a problem in function if you want air conditioning, as most OE setups low mount the AC compressor. The way the Tri-Five crossmember is made, this inherently causes a clearance issue. So, how do you fix it? Two ways: if form is following function, and the budget is tight (or tight-er, for that matter), companies like Dirty Dingo and ICT billet make brackets to high mount the A/C compressor.
It’s certainly not the most aesthetically pleasing manner, as the compressor winds up *very* far east or west of the engine, but if you’ve wound up with an engine that came with an accessory drive, and you want to save the money, it is an option. If you have nothing to start with, if budget allows, and if you want it to look as good as it functions, an aftermarket accessory drive is generally the answer. Personally, I’m fond of Holley’s mid mount accessory drives, P/N 20-185. The bracketless setup, meaning all mounting points for all accessories are cast into the water pump housing, makes for a sleek, compact fit that is unrivaled, and tucked as close to the engine as possible leaving as much room towards the radiator as possible. And honestly, if you’re starting from scratch, with nothing to work from at all, the money isn’t that bad.
Oil Pan Most of GM’s oil pan options are a no-go when putting an LS into a Tri-Five. Most of your standard oil pan offerings either have a sump that is too big front to back and will not clear the drag link in the steering system or are the wrong configuration all together with a front sump setup. Unless the engine you’re using came from a V8 trailblazer, or an H3 Hummer (both use the pan GM refers to as the “muscle car swap pan”), the oil pan will need attention. Holley’s 302-1 pan is my pan of choice; the shorter sump clears the drag link with plenty of room, even if the engine is slid forward to clear tall, 2-piece valve covers like we used on Project Dad’s Del Ray. And the rounded front of the pan allows for plenty of clearance, even if you’re setting the engine further down in the chassis than the standard side mounts place it.
Exhaust Manifolds
Ok, this is a “maybe”, but, if you’re not using manifolds that use a rear-most exit configuration, they’ve gotta go. Clearance in this area should be no surprise to anyone who’s tried to stick a set of headers on one of these cars, and many LS manifolds either dump in the middle, or too far towards the middle pointing the flange almost directly at the pitman and/or idler arm. Holley’s LS manifolds, P/N 8503-HKR are the perfect fit for these cars and have a pre-made downpipe P/N HOL-70701403-RHKR to mate to your favorite exhaust kit, taking some guesswork out of the equation. If a more complete option is what you’re after, Woody’s Hot Rodz even offers a full kit of exhaust components, P/N WHR-EXHKIT, that consists of the manifolds, downpipes, and Pypes exhaust kit to make this process as easy as possible.
Fuel It!
Now, unless you’re already fuel injected, and I don’t mean running a Rochester mechanical unit, some fuel system upgrades will be in line. Your old carbureted small block likely runs on somewhere between 5-7PSI of fuel pressure, and that’s not going to cut it here.
Most modern fuel injection setups require high-pressure, high-volume fuel systems to be in place. What this means, is that even if you have an electric fuel pump in place for your carbureted engine, by design it still will not be able to maintain the flow and pressure required by a fuel injector. So, a compatible fuel pump and regulator setup will be necessary when performing the conversion. This can be accomplished a few different ways:
External Fuel Pump
In the days before EFI compatible fuel tanks (which we’ll talk about in our next point) were available, a high-pressure, high-volume fuel pump was simply retrofitted inline, much like the large low-pressure, high-volume pumps used by carbureted race cars. If you go this route, and choose to use a factory tank, a return bung will need to be added (more on this later as well). Keep in mind, external pumps create more noise, generate more heat, and typically do not last as long as an in-tank pump.
Internal Fuel Pump
There are multiple tanks on the market now that utilize an internal fuel pump setup akin to most every factory electronic fuel injected car out there. This makes for whisper quiet operation, even with upgraded high-volume pumps, and increased longevity due to the pump being cooled by submersion into the fuel itself.
Downside? It’s not quite as serviceable as an external, but remember, the OEs do this, so you’ll get hundreds of thousands of reliable miles out of your fuel pump, so service intervals are wildly increased. It’s almost a non-issue with pleasure cars. My personal favorite is Holley’s Sniper EFI tanks, P/N 19-109 and 19-110, for 1955-56 and 1957 respectively. If you’re looking for more capacity and extended cruising, CPP offers two options: A 25-gallon EFI-ready tank, P/N CPP-5557AGT-25FI, and a monster 29-gallon setup, P/N CPP-5557AGT29FIH like we used on the 2021 Golden Star Giveaway car.
Regulators! Mount up!
A crucial part of any EFI system, you’ve got to make sure that LS is seeing the correct fuel pressure (OE operating pressure is 60PSI), and a fuel pressure regulator is what accomplishes that. Most mechanical pumps, and some electric pumps used in conjunction with carburetors have pre-set pressures, and don’t require a regulator to be used. But this shouldn’t be anything new to the electric fuel pump guys. The difference is, EFI setups are wildly more particular about fuel pressure to operate correctly, and even the smallest EFI pumps will require the use of a bypass, or return-style regulator to be precise. These regulators work exactly as the name implies; regulating fuel to a specific pressure, then allowing excess to “bypass” and return back to the fuel tank.
The hot ticket for the LS swap for years has been the combination filter/regulator from a C5 corvette. This is a compact, all-in-one unit that is easily mounted to the frame rail back by the fuel tank, minimizing return hose length. Add to that it is relatively inexpensive, and comes with a built-in mounting bracket, and it's easy to see why it’s a fan favorite. However, many choose an adjustable regulator for increased tuning options, flexibility down the road, or even just for the look.
Once you’ve picked your tank out, you can figure out the plumbing. Most choose to use AN style braided hose and aluminum fittings to accomplish the job and allow for flexible routing and leak free sealing every time. are full packages out there that carefully match components, such as Woody’s LS Fuel Line Kit, P/N LS-FUEL that give you everything you need to go from the Sniper tank mentioned above to the LS of your choice.
Picking an engine and transmission is arguably “the fun part” of the deal. And with the info in this article, mounting it and fueling it should be as straightforward as it comes. But, there’s an aspect left in play that frankly is what scares most people off from this project: The wiring. The premise of going from a half dozen wires to a few DOZEN wires to make the engine run can be a daunting thought. In all reality, there’s minimal effort required here over simply wiring a small or big block car from scratch, or even wiring an existing car. But, with the advent of today’s readily available conversion pieces, there is very little that isn’t “plug and play,” even if there’s more to plug in.
Wired for Management
When thinking about the wiring and management, you have to look at the car as two separate areas: Body wiring, and engine wiring. There will be no extensive wiring involved on the “car” side of things; frankly, you’ll almost treat it as if it was a carbureted small block, with what wiring in place that normally energizes the coil simply turning on the computer instead. From there, the engine side of things takes over. This SHOULD be comforting to those converting a car that is already “done” to some extent in the fact that you shouldn’t have to change much at all. Matter of fact, Project Dad’s Del Ray has an LS3 mated to a factory-style wiring harness even. Simply put, you don’t have to reinvent the wheel.
Lo-Carb Diet: Even if you’re going carbureted, the LS engine still needs some sort of management to run the ignition side of things. There is no distributor in place; each individual cylinder has its own coil to fire it off, signaled by crank and/or cam position sensors, utilizing precisely controlled ignition timing and a more complete burn that creates more power and more efficiency, arguably two of the biggest selling points for going LS. Therefore, a way to trigger these coils is required, and on a carbureted setup, this is easily accomplished by MSD’s LS control box kit, P/N 6014. I won’t spend a lot of time elaborating here, as going carbureted LS honestly defeats most logical points of performing the conversion. However, if you’re a carb diehard, there are ways to still use the LS series of engines.
Fuelie Fever: When it comes to the fuel injection side of things, you have multiple options as to how to manage your setup. No matter what, you’ll need a computer, commonly referred to as a PCM, for “powertrain control module” for those that do engine and transmission control, or ECU, for “engine control unit”, and wiring harness(es). This is one point that budget most certainly comes into play, and how capable you are or how willing you are to learn. Companies like PSI and Speartech make readily available conversion harnesses to use a factory General Motors PCM without the unnecessary components usually found in a newer car. This is a great way to save a few bucks if you’re going with a used engine setup, especially if you’ve come up with a setup with a factory PCM included.
The downfall here, is manual input computer tuning absolutely positively will be required, at the very minimum to disable the downstream oxygen sensors (since catalytic converters likely will not be in place) and all the factory security system parameters. If the engine is upgraded away from stock in a performance manner, additional tuning will be required as well, including manually changing fuel maps and timing tables.
This type of tuning requires a laptop computer, software, licensing, and the knowledge of making changes without possibly damaging the engine. If this is something you’re not capable of, money will need to be expended with a professional tuner.
If you’re looking at a new engine, specifically a Chevrolet Performance crate engine, there are management options from GM using pre-programmed ECUs and pre-made wiring harnesses. These harnesses are very clearly labeled, and are very user friendly, even for the novice. These setups don’t offer much flexibility out of the box, but factory spec’d tuning means that 99% of the time, if matched with the correct engine, they’re ready to go with zero input required.
Now, my personal preference revolves around Holley’s Terminator X and Terminator X-Max management systems. These systems have been designed solely around converting a car to an LS that didn’t come with one and are made to be as user-friendly as possible for the first time installer no matter how mild or wild the combination. The wiring harnesses come clearly marked as to what plugs in where, and 100% complete. On top of that, setup on the computer side of things is as easy as answering less than a handful of very basic questions pertaining to your setup. Bang the key, and it’s almost assured to run on the first shot. The more you drive, the better it gets with Holley’s self-learning capabilities. The price point isn’t incredibly hard to stomach either for all the function you get.
Transmission Two-fer: Remember when I mentioned back in the transmission section about “E” designated automatic transmission being electronically controlled? Without some means of management, these transmissions will only function in park, reverse, neutral, and one forward gear. All shift functions are controlled by electronic solenoids and must have some means of control in place in order to command the transmission to do so. Factory PCMs have this built in, and transmission control will be handled in the tuning process. Holley’s Terminator X-Max option offers transmission control in an all-in-one unit just the same, only varying in the sense that the trans control harness will be separate from the engine harness, but still plugging into the PCM. If you’re using the Chevrolet Performance controller, or going carbureted, you’ll need a standalone transmission controller, and a means to pick up necessary parameters like RPM and throttle position in order to operate. If using both the Chevrolet Performance ECU and Transmission Control Module, or TCM, this is a plug-and-play deal.
Cool It!
Contrary to popular belief, there is nothing about an LS that prohibits you from using a standard radiator. All that needs to happen, is it will need to be in the 6-cylinder configuration, AKA in front of the core support, for clearance that’ll be necessary for an accessory drive. We’ve used Cold Case Radiator’s CCR-CHT563AK radiator kit multiple times with great luck, and all that is required is to reduce the hose setup down to meet the 1.25” and 1.5” upper and lower outlets. So, if you’re still after a classic look with your swap (that we’ll talk about next), it's more than viable.
That said, aftermarket crossflow units are still a popular option. The LS uses a water pump with a built-in upper outlet, with the thermostat being on the lower, both of which are locate towards the passenger side of the vehicle. Most of your “LS-ready” radiators you see for sale feature a same-side passenger side upper and lower hose configuration will make life easy and keep hose routing to a minimum. If you wanted to take it to the next level, Mattson’s Custom Radiator does a complete, LS-ready module, P/N MAT-RAD that features a hand-built core support, giant multi-pass radiator with correct orientation and size inlet/outlets and has the option the be setup with or without air conditioning for a sleek, all-in-one cooling option.
Playing Dress Up: So, we’ve covered plenty about what makes the LS great, but the one downfall that most anyone will agree on, is the LS is inherently NOT a pretty engine. When compared to a time where chrome was king, even if it was under the hood, wiring everywhere and plastic intake manifolds are a stark contrast. It’s a utilitarian piece, straight out of the new age where the most thought GM put into aesthetics under the hood was a giant plastic cover. Thankfully, nowadays there’s multiple options when it comes to LS dress-up mods.
Modern Makeover: So, you’ve got a Tri-Five sitting on a Morrison chassis, with a set of big diameter billet wheels, and the engine bay needs to match the low stance and modern flair of the rest of the car. This is easier accomplished now than ever, with companies like Billet Specialties offering up two-piece valve covers that hide the coil packs totally and completely, billet accessory drive systems from companies like Eddie Motorsports and Vintage Air, and sheetmetal aluminum intake manifolds from Holley’s Sniper line make quick work of taking the LS from a mundane looking piece intended to be hidden, to a gem that can stand front and center without faltering.
What’s Old Is New: If you have a vehicle that has held true to the classic look it was designed with, the LS can be a real turn-off. With the LS growing in popularity over the last decade and a half, we now have the full steam of the aftermarket behind making one of these modern powerplants imitate the crown jewels of engine bays everywhere in the looks department. Entire companies like LS Classic have been born out of doing just this, and options are plentiful. Want your LS to look like a ’57 Fuelie engine? They’ve got you covered with one of their incredible two-piece intake manifolds, repro air breathers, and finned-style valve covers, as seen on the 2021 giveaway car. Want a 409 without wildly expensive, hard to get service parts? They’ve got that too, with their bolt-on full valve covers, valley pan/fill tube combo, and 2x4 intake and air breather combos. They’ve even designed a faux distributor, P/N LSC-GMLS4002 that will really make people have to look twice by remote mounting the coils and passing the wires through a hollow distributor and out to their respective cylinders.
There’s even options to make the setup appear carbureted as well. Holley makes multiple carbureted intakes for the LS, and their Terminator X and X-Max Stealth 4150 packages can be had ready-to-run for the LS, utilizing the same classic styled carburetor-appearing throttle body injection unit as their universal kit, but paired up with the engine harness designed specifically for the LS configurations for a one-stop package.
The LS may not be for everyone, but it has become a viable option in today’s market for powering our beloved Tri-Fives. Whether you’re a pup just getting into the game, or an old dog looking to learn a new trick, the information is out there to make the switch as easy and painless as possible.
Have any other questions? There’s decades of Tri-Five LS experience under one roof at Woody’s Hot Rodz. Give a call to talk to one of the Tri-Five Experts on anything and everything LS related! 855-567-1957
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